Do you use an aquarium test kit to regularly check your water parameters? And, here’s what it looks like under a microscope. So, if you are not careful with how you remove it, you could be helping the blue-green algae spread faster than before. Even deeper in the substrate along the glass, it has faded into oblivion! It’s now removed and being treated with blue green algae remiver. Will the stain remover kill my shrimp? Thanks for sharing that interesting tidbit. Hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) or glutaraldehyde are two common choices. But, 3 weeks later, I see it creeping back. You want it gone, and you want it gone now! I only as as we often blame what we see, rather than what we don’t. Where are you located? So surely you don’t want your fish near the stuff. Thanks for sharing your feedback! If it doesn’t work for someone they can then spend money on something else, but if it does work you didn’t spend money and you don’t have any treatment chemicals in the tank. While its exact causes are not clear, it can be removed without too much difficulty using the methods listed in this guide. In fact, at the time of writing this, there are no known fish or invertebrates that consume blue-green algae. I won a battle against it in 2 of my tanks using manual removal and frequent water changes. If your aquarium is infested with stubborn green algae, for example, or blue-green algae, we highly recommend treating the entire tank with hydrogen peroxide (H2O2). The only place the blue green is really problematic so far is on my mosses (fissidens fontanus) since I can’t manually remove it from there without ripping out the moss in the process. So to combat BGA blooms aquarists need to bring down nitrate levels. If you really want to go down this route, use a turkey baster. I am heartbroken…and very confused…can BGA kill Plecos and snails? Please make absolutely sure you do not exceed the percentage of H2O2-of 3% or you may have a hard time calculating the dosages correctly. Thats interesting to hear that the phosphate remover caused it to grow quicker. You’ll get sick for sure. Here's how to fix it (In just days! I have an aquarium in direct sunlight. I have seen this used on a tank with ghost shrimp without issues. Started adding liquid carbon when the plants stopped growing and that made a big difference and all was well until the blue-green showed up, which I understand suggests low nitrates, so I have started dosing with nitrogen and potassium as well (was already using a comprehensive for trace elements). Sorry to hear you are still battling green water. You will need 48 ml of H2O2 for a treatment in this exemplary tank. (coral moss) or Riccia fluitans (liverwort) may be damaged in the course of this treatment. So it’s not a chemical/antibiotic designed to kill BGA/cyanobacteria like, for example, Erythromycin. I’m going to give blackouts another go, although I also hope I’m never in the situation again where I need to. I’ve not allowed it to get that bad and there’s no gasping. Once the blue-green algae is removed, this level of nitrates should prevent it from coming back. ), Aquarium water turn green? Take a syringe (with no needle but the ones that you can use to feed baby birds and administer medicine to children) and fill it with Peroxide. Like most algae, a well-maintained tank with stable water parameters seems to be the best method of preventing blue-green algae from taking over your tank. As I touched on in the article, while some people experience great success with blacking out their tank, others find that the process does absolutely nothing. Would definitely recommend Ultra Life versus the messing around with manual removal or darkness or anything else. Anecdotally, I have come across what I believe to be two types of blue green algae during my time fish keeping. Let me try to explain: It is true that BGA can exist when nitrate levels in water are zero (so your first claim is correct). Also, Ultralife Blue Green Slime Remover is a powder. I’m not sure that’s what caused the outbreak, but I’m not taking any chances going forward. You did well to see get rid of it with just with manual removal – Impressive! It’s one of the reasons water changes are so important. Use at your own risk! Nitrates are the end product of the nitrogen cycle and unless you are doing something in particular to get rid of them, they should always be increasing until your water change drops the levels back down. To perform a spot-treatment, turn off everything that generates flow within the tank, carefully spread the biocide in the desired area with a syringe, wait 15 min, then turn the flow on again. Didn’t do any damage to my plants or fish (had a air pump running) and didn’t even phase my shrimp. Light Detox. Thanks again for your insight. Algae doesn’t spread in the same manner. As for Duckweed, that’s a whole other problem – but it shouldn’t have any impact on removing blue green-algae. We recommend the use of protective gear (goggles, gloves). I’ll best that is a relief! Today, I am going to take you through the different ways you can get rid of blue-green algae. I’ve used short black-outs in this way once or twice, knocking back huge mats to isolated spots that can be removed. I have never had success with the blackout method, which is why I recommend UltraLife. What else causes the lose of scales, dropsy, pop eye, rotting flesh, cloudy eye, and fin loss? This is the only written location I could find it but anecdotally, it has been repeated in the local fish keeping groups I have been to that low nitrates are a potential cause. Well, it turns out that blue-green algae isn’t an algae at all. Would you like to share your secret as to how you did it? 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